Sunday, August 14, 2016

Alaska by Train and Boat

From the largest National Park in Alaska to the smallest, next stop: Kenai Fjords! Yet, we did not drive towards the park (which could be considered a southern coastal neighbor to Wrangell- St. Elias) we drove UP into Alaska and headed for Anchorage. This detour was to tickle my fancy of wanting to ride on a train along the Alaskan Railroad! So with our Adventure Class seats booked, we camped out in the Anchorage Cabela's parking lot and got ready for a 6:45am departure on the train to Seward. 


 ALL ABOARD!


Seriously, the train was fun, relaxing, and we got to see a lot of cool scenery as the railroad does not follow the highway to the coast, yet winds its way through the mountains and valleys. Four hours and many photos of said mountains, glaciers, and train tracks later we found ourselves in the fishy smelly town of Seward, Alaska.


Interestingly enough though, we weren't allowed to check into our hostel until 5pm, so a few hours had to be wasted exploring the town with packs on our backs. Walking along a section of the National Historic Iditarod Trail, we got familiar with the layout of town, chatted with the rangers at the Visitor Center, and then found Seward Brewing Company where were had some beers and food- not a bad way to wait.

We were staying at the Moby Dick Hostel, and as per usual with hostels we got our share of hot showers and interesting roommates (one night even included the funniest older "cruise couple" who staggered in, smashed drunk and were hysterical to listen to as they whisper fought over who would get the lower bunk and repetitive drunken slurs of "I think  am still on the boat, everything keeps swaying!" and hisses of "You are the worst husband ever!" with an answering "Shh!" from said husband- haha).

The main reason we wanted to come down to Kenai Fjords (other than the train ride) was for that iconic wildlife guide/whale watching tour. So, after some research, we booked an 8.5 hour cruise called the National Park tour with Kenai Fjords Tours, that would take us exploring through Resurrection Bay, out into the Gulf of Alaska, into some of the fjords to check out some tidewater glaciers (like Aialik Glacier) up close, and even stopping for a dinner on Fox Island.

Of course, going into a tour like this, one always hopes for the best but keeps reality in check. We heard many stories of past bookings of the cruise getting to see only a few seafaring birds but we had to take the chance. "If not now, when" right?  The cruise, mostly due to the kick-ass knowledgeable crew and freaking insane amount of wildlife sightings, went WAY above and beyond any expectations that I had.  Here is where I warn you, even before we lost sight of docks, there were more than just a few gulls… MANY MANY MANY photos were taken. Prepare yourselves, you have been warned!  They do say pictures are worth a thousand words, so I'll do my best to pick and share a select few photos and let them speak for themselves…. *I wanted to add more but Karl told me to limit the overload on here, but if you want to see them just ask!*
















Sea Otters, Steller Sea Lions, Harbor Seals, Bald Eagles, Cormorants, Black Oystercathers, Common Murres, Puffins (Horned and Tufted), and the WHALES: Fin Whales, a pods of Orca, and the Humpback Whales… Oh My! Oh yeah, glaciers and pretty scenery too!


With just that day, I could have left Kenai Fjords and Seward, more than satisfied. I was giddy with excitement on what I witnessed but we had 2 more days to enjoy the gray rainy weather of Seward. 
On our 2nd full day, we layered on the rain gear and booked a ride up to Exit Glacier. Exit Glacier, is the most accessible interior glacier, and is one of more than 40 glaciers that fan out from the Harding Icefield in Kenai Fjords National Park. There are only 2 options when people go up to Exit Glacier, if you don't want to book an excursion with a guide: 1) take the short easy path leading to overlooks of the glacier or 2) take the longer and steeper journey up to the top of the Harding Icefield (just to look at it, because they do not recommend attempting it without a guide and proper equipment like crampons).  As we don't own crampons (yet) we modified option #1. After talking with the ranger again (and getting a few ideas of our own) we took the easy stroll with all the other tourists, and got to see the signs marking where the glacier used to extend to in the past.


But, after that lil jaunt we followed the rangers suggestions and worked our way down to the Outwash Plain of the glacier. From there, we just followed the water-flow and scrambled our way all the way up to both of the toes of Exit Glacier.


It was surreal, getting to be so removed from all the other people and close enough to touch the glacier and have it all to ourselves. I'm starting to understand why Karl likes bushwhacking so much - exploring off the beaten track can really reward you, if you are prepared for the challenge.


Having taken the adventure of the train ride in, we needed to take the train back out. But it only leaves at 6pm. so once again we had time to waste waiting. We spent it in the best way possible, hanging out with more animals. The Alaska SeaLife Center, an educational center for the public and rehabilitation facility for a lot of the wildlife was awesome, and once again, heed my warning: MANY photos were taken!











After that, we treated ourselves to a nice seafood dinner and got on the long train ride back to Anchorage.


The cap on the end of the trip was another rainbow seen from the train.

<3 S

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