So quick recap here... Keep in mind for months now, Karl & I have been mostly "on our own" with some star appearances here and there scattered about. And then BOOM February hits with Katie Z vacationing with us in Utah, and then REI/climber friends reaching new heights with us in Red Rock, and the social interactions didn't stop there...
Putting Nevada behind us, we crossed back into Arizona yet again (seriously our map looks like we have been doing loop-d-loops through the west now). Rather than just pass through on our way to New Mexico, we made our third stop at Joey's. I guess we could give the excuse that we needed to return the portable propane heater he lent us (appropriately named 'Mr. Heater' did come in handy on those below freezing nights in the tent) but in all honesty, we just like hanging out with my cousins. This time around consisted of boating...
...more photos...
...slingshots...
...and more rainbows (funny that for a place that doesn't get much precipitation, it rained every time we were there!)
And of course there was cake and video gaming too!
At this point in the trip, it became official...we were going to have to start heading back east rather than just continuing to meander around the west. Making this pill a littler easier to swallow was the fact that we would resume our adventures with another set of vacationing friends. Mike and Steph would have done some epic car camping/National Park trip on their own, as they have done before with their vacation days in the past, but this time they made it a point to choice parks that were along our intended route so as to meet up with us. So, they drove from PA and we drove from AZ to meet at White Sands National Monument in New Mexico.
The intention was for Karl & Mike to do flips and other crazy things from the dunes while Steph and I ran around and took pictures of the place/their antics. Well, the weather had other plans leaving the famed rare dramatic white gypsum dunes wet and more off-white and sticky therefore making hard falls into them potentially unsafe and photos not as ideal. The extended forecast only looked more bleak with rain and clouds predicted. Plan B? Drive through the sandy puddles and make the best of the it!
Now, the question becomes what to do with a gray and rainy day (which also happened to be Valentines Day) in New Mexico? Seeking out the possibility of other intelligent life in the universe by visiting Roswell, NM seemed like the most entertaining option.
As for how interesting the town was, just say that most exciting thing we did was watch the boys expend some pent up energy at the local skate park.
Hey, at least we can say we visited, right? If "they" visited, is still in question...
Enough of the curiosities; back onto our true loves… the National Parks!
We did flirt with the New Mexico/Texas border for a bit, jumping back and forth by snagging a spot in the bushes and setting up our “Tentipede” (the REI Kingdom 6) in Texas as our base camp at Pine Springs Campground in Guadalupe Mountain National Park for the night, only to head back into New Mexico in the morning to satisfy my desire to explore underground again.
In the Chihuahuan Desert of the Guadalupe Mountains lurks another world, one of darkness, subterranean chambers, and fantastic formations that were created drip by drip over thousands of years: Carlsbad Caverns. Within park boarders there are 110+ caves and they are known for having the world’s most wondrous collection of cave formations.
As I have said before with previous caves we have visited, there is something thrilling about being able to drop yourself below the surface (over 800 ft) into a landscape that is still so mysterious and unknown. For Mike and Steph, a day spent in a cave wasn’t really their idea of spending time in the “great outdoors” but with a little coaxing (not much) we convinced them (mostly Mike) that not only would it be worth is to do the self guided walk but to also book a Ranger guided tour through one of the scenic rooms, Kings Palace.
Mere photos taken out of context will never be able to do a place like this justice, as it is full sensory overload. Darkness so complete your mind can’t comprehend it, formations so odd one’s imagination runs wild, air and temperatures like I have never felt before, and knowing you are within the earth itself. But I am failing even more miserably with words. so here are a few images to inspire you to go experience this place for yourself.
Over 6 hours later, we trudged our way back up the switchbacks and into the sunlight gleaming down from the Natural Entrance. To cap the whole experience, Mike & I needed visit our Ranger friend at the Visitor Center to be sworn in as Jr. Rangers!
Before leaving, it was also agreed all around that we will have to come back again one day (this time during the proper season) to see the massive dark serpentining clouds of Mexican free-tailed bats emerge from the cave to go gorge on buggies. Just something else to look forward to, right?
With our below the earth cravings satisfied for the time being, we said good-bye to New Mexico and concentrated on Texas. The next morning was going to be our big day, we were going to highpoint Texas (aka reach the tallest point of the state). Up early and energized by a breakfast cooked by Karl, we decided to walk to the Visitor Center to check conditions, as if hiking 8+ miles wasn’t going to be enough. Mike & Steph were good sports about the additional few miles though.
Once we knew what to expect from the weather and the trail, we were on our way UP to Guadalupe Peak. The stats from the official trail head were as follows: Rated as strenuous and non accessible, 8.4 miles round trip; elevation gain of 2,930 ft, estimated time of 6-8 hours.
With the first mile and a half being the most strenuous and largest chuck on elevation gain, we threw them right into the thick of it… What a trail to introduce M&S to the ways of Starl, huh? The path is an endless number of well maintained switchbacks, snaking their way up all the rocky edges of the valley. After one reaches a certain height, the ability to gaze down upon all the zigzags that were just endured along with the loop of the campground and roads to the Visitor Center were all in clear view. It was a nice reward for the endless uphill.
Silly antics were had along the way (would you expect anything less from Karl & Mike?)
After the steepest section was behind us, the trail curled around a cliff and put us on the north-facing slope and in the midst of an awesome pine forest. But, with it being north-facing, therefore cooler and shadier thanks to the trees, we really started to feel the bite of the forceful winds that were blowing that day.
Nature likes to play fun tricks on us little humans with little things like false summits along the way and then makes us go downhill for a bit (in order to cross a bridge) in order to make the last push for the true top.
A chunk of earth called El Capitan commands your attention along the final scrambles to the peak.
And a shiny metal monument and trail register awaits at the final goal.
Photos were taken…
Lunch and, more importantly, beers were had…
Plus, M&S still seemed to consider us their friends!
The descent was easy going and made even better by the first lizard sighting for M&S.
That night, one would think we would all sleep like babies after a long hike but the forceful winds I mentioned earlier turned into a full on wicked wind storm, rocking the tent around like there was no tomorrow. Entertaining to say the least. The next morning, sore and not as rested as would be ideal, we took it easy with a short jaunt to Smith & Manzanita Springs in hopes of seeing wildlife.
Good thing it was pretty because other than a few fleeting deer butts, Karl & Mike were the wildest things out there.
Plus, it was a pretty important date: Steph’s Birthday! So, we said our goodbyes to Guadalupe Mountains National Park and started booking it down south to Big Bend National Park to find a campsite and a birthday margarita!
An actual quote from one of the National Park books we use as a reference states: “ Set in remote southwestern Texas, far from major cities and interstate highways, Big Ben National Park isn’t a place travelers visit on whim or very often.” Such words were repeated in other informational guides leading us to believe that such a large park in the middle of no where would be like having the place to ourselves. Lies. As we arrive mid-day at the northern most visitor center, Persimmon Gap, we were informed ALL campsites have been booked for days and would be booked throughout the weekend. Our mistake was (once again not paying attention to particular details on the calendar) forgetting that a long weekend was approaching: Presidents Day. Also, something beyond our control was the fact that a huge annual event, the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest was happening at the exact same time. Oops. Moral of the story (which we should have known by now) is the check the calendar of events well in advance.
After a moment of exasperation, Plan B was put into effect. Drive through the park and exit on the southwestern side towards the ghost town of Terlingua. Utilizing an independent campground/RV park, we snagged a spot of dirt in the middle of a parking lot and pitched the tent to get us through the weekend. The positive side of this circumstance was that it put us much closer to restaurants and bars (a.k.a. places where a birthday margarita for Steph was much easier to find and enjoy!)
After talking with the most pessimistic Ranger we have ever met at the Panther Junction VC (still informative and entertaining, at the same time though) we were off to explore. There are basically four different districts within Big Bend, all immense in themselves: the North, East, West, and the Chisos Mountains and we wanted to experience them all (well, that and the fact that the Big Bend Jr Ranger Book had activities for us to do as each place and couldn’t NOT do our “homework”). We headed back to the North and into the narrow ravines that snake through the desert landscape: Devil’s Den and Dog Canyon.
This was a perfect start for our introduction to Big Bend. A trail all to ourselves with the sun beating down on us but a steady breeze keeping it manageable as we entered the wash and into the rocky walls.
There were jackrabbit sightings. I’m pretty sure Steph squealed with glee when this guy crossed our path.
There were plenty of opportunities for rock scrambling. Mike began releasing his inner Spider-man.
There were many canyon walls to gaze upon or for Karl to flip off of.
And of course, there were many cool photos opportunities.
Not too bad for our first full day. The next morning dawned with dark clouds but bright hopes for an open campsite in the actual park.
Luck or just good timing was on our side this time and we set up shop in the Rio Grande Village with roadrunners as our neighbors.
Replacing our worry about where to camp with the worry of when it would being pouring rain, a soak in some hot spring ruins along the Rio Grande seemed like the logical excursion, especially since camp was already on the East side of the park. This meant easy driving access to a trail that passes remains of a resort that existed when they attempted to capitalize on the water heated by geothermal processes carrying dissolved mineral salts and healing powers.
After a short walk, you stumble upon the bones of walls that used to divide up different tubs right along the roaring edge of the Rio Grande.
The heated water looked inviting (or at least interesting to say the least). But, to truly earn our soak, we wandered along the Rio Grande a little more so as to checked out the river,
become memorized by the rock under our feet as the rain revealed lines of color that popped vividly,
as well as waving to the people in Mexico while contemplating how idiotic a boarder wall would be.
As the cool drops fell from the sky, we decided it was time to let the warm water soak us instead.
Once body temperatures were high, we even ventured into dipping our feet into the cold waters of the river. The contrast in temperatures was intense.
Instead of continuing the relaxing trend Mike, Karl, & I decided that rather than riding in the car back to camp we would hike along the Rio and the rim of the canyon all the way back to camp. The views were worth it.
To answer the question of “how close to Mexico were you?”, we can reply “a stone’s throw away”. (And yes, we actually did just that).
Fun side story: Once we got back to camp we decided it might be good hygiene to shower off the residue from the hot springs and Rio Grande and in the parking lot is another Honda Element. Karl couldn’t resist parking next to them, as he does anytime another Element is around. Well, the owners happened to show up and the first thing out of Karl’s mouth is “want to compare mods?” and a long conversation began. Here we are, meeting Adam and Becca and finding we have a lot in common. From the huge fact that we were both living out of a Honda Element in order to explore the National Parks to small details like that both couples have been together for the same number of years, it was a fun view of an alternate universe. Check them out: Out Of Our Element
That night the slight rain turned into a full out storm, and once again we found out how grateful we are for having a bad-ass tent. As our camp was one of few who “survived” the night in dry comfort! Thanks REI Kingdom!
Day #3 started off with an uncomfortable encounter with very hot ground up hot pepper spice that we call it FairyDust. Said FairyDust was supposed to be gently sprinkled onto Mike’s breakfast eggs, yet got rerouted by the wind blowing into my eyes instead. Essentially pepper spraying Stacy. Outdoor camp cooking problems, I guess. Once my eyes stopped weeping enough to be able to see, we took off for the West side of the park and the scenic Ross Maxwell Drive. Stops to check out the historic stuff at the Castolon VC.
Then hike (and scramble) through the Santa Elena Canyon, with photo sessions included.
After wards we checked out the Mules Ears Peaks (which don’t really look much like mule’s ears, but oh well).
And capped the day with an awesome hike out to the Chimneys.
Last but certainly not least, we were ready to explore the Chisos Mountain region. And what better way to do that than by backpacking! We should begin this story by mentioning that Mike has not gone on a backpacking trip since he was in Boy Scouts and Steph was a first-timer.
Steph looks so excited, doesn't she?
There is something exciting about sharing an activity we love to challenge ourselves to do with friends who have never done anything like this before. It is like seeing the experience in a whole new way. Much of the monotonous switchbacks were endured with distractions of wildlife (mostly deer) and playing the name game as we hiked.
On the way to our back country campsite for the night was the opportunity to summit the highest point in the park: Emory Peak.
We even convinced Steph to scramble up the rocks with the lure of lizards
and, of course, awesome views.
One of the best moments was seeing how proud Mike was of Steph of pushing past her comfort level and kicking ass at it.
Once we descended from the peak and retrieved our packs from the bear boxes, only a few more miles was left until we made it to our little nook of the woods and settled in for the night.
Almost as if the wildlife was attempting to put Mike and Steph through a full initiation to the backpacking lifestyle, mice had made their way into their food/snacks and had a smorgasbord buffet. Guess that is better than bears or mountain lions going after the food (or us), right? It was only a one nighter backpacking trip so no one was in danger of going hungry, plus Karl & I would have had enough back up supplies for them if necessary but the adventure is only half over at this point, we still need to go back DOWN. As any backpacker knows, one of the most uncomfortable feelings is putting a heavy pack back onto sore shoulders and hips the day after a long hike. Thankfully, it was all downhill from there (as in literally going down the mountains, not down in spirits!)
Like I said while we were at Guadalupe Peak, somehow after all that we continued to put them though M&S still seemed to consider us their friends!
With less than a mile left at the end of the trip, Karl sprinted ahead and bought everyone ice-cream sandwiches to celebrate. Now, the real question is if M&S will ever backpack with us again…. You’ll have to ask them that one.
But, one last night was to be spent in Big Bend and why not make that an adventure in itself? So, we headed on some “less than ideal” gravel roads to get to a back country car campsite for the night. Keep in mind that what Karl considers fun driving is what others usually consider stressful/anxiety inducing driving. After a few miles of taking our “city tires” on rough terrain, it looked as if Mike was ready to punch Karl. Once parked though, beers were opened, kites were being flown, and we sat in camp chairs in the middle of the desert next to our vehicles and just soaked up the sunshine.
It was true desert hillbilly tailgating at its finest.
As the sunset that night, it was silent and peaceful and the perfect time to reflect on how satisfying our time in Big Bend was, especially since we got to share it with friends.
The next day, after an epic and authentic Mexican lunch, we parted ways with M&S. Them, to continue their vacation and slowly drive back to Pittsburgh and the adult life that awaited them. As for us, we would bounce around further into Texas to continue our new social trend.
Eastward bound, we were off to visit a college buddy, Russell. Good thing Karl texted him to see if he was still interested in meeting up with us because we didn’t know he moved from Houston to Austin. No big deal, it was on the way either way. So, a night was spent catching up with Dan Russell and his gorgeous other half, Sophia. We went out to get some drinks and gourmet burgers and ended up losing a credit card in the process. Long story short, a staff member of the establishment we were at misplaced Karl’s card when he went to cash out our drink orders at the bar. The card was cancelled immediately and no fraudulent/unknown charges even appeared on the account (still to this day, the true where-a-bouts remains a mystery) but dinner and drinks ended up being free since we had no way to pay for it due to the employee’s error. Oh well, getting the card replaced is another story for another time though, just say being on the road and having to do such things is not very convenient.
The drinking continued late into the night at the Russell abode and the morning’s hangover was soothed with breakfast at a trendy joint in town. With promises of the next time we meet, making more time to hang out. They are the type of friends that no matter how much time passes between meetings, it is easy to get back into the flow of friendship. So much so we forgot to take a photo together!
From Austin we shot over towards Houston to meet up with a fellow hiker friend, Udeni and family. Udeni, who’s sister (Sarah) we already met up with on this trip when we were passing through California, was another of those trekking companions from our Patagonia group where strangers quickly became friends. He warmly welcomed us into his home where were had delicious homemade meals, bounced on trampolines, played with puppies, biked to breweries, and caught up with great conversations. I hope to continue to have an adventure buddy/family for life with these people, they make every moment of life look like so much fun.
Yet it doesn’t end there, just outside of Houston Karl has an uncle and with little notice the family dropped what they were doing that day when they found out we would be passing though. Jim, Jen, and their boys (Seth and Noah) took us out for a family style BBQ dinner where catch-up conversations quickly turned into chats about cool cars.
Seriously, we are two lucky souls to have so many wonderful people open their homes, hearts, and lives to us…
The adventures of Starl Krenbic may be seen as numerous cool destinations, but it is truly the people along the way that are making this trip special for us.
Guess the universe is telling us that we must be doing something right to be surrounded by so many sweet souls.
<3 S
