Those Who Kill (Yo Semite)

As was mentioned in a prior post, the timing to visit most of the parks in a single calendar year was difficult.  One milestone in our schedule was definitely the most popular park, and some would argue the most stunning.  The issue with Yosemite is getting away from the millions of visitors that visit each season.  That is why we settled on a visit outside of the summer holiday months during the planning stage.  We were rewarded by actually being able to secure a nice walk-in campsite at a reasonable hour, hikes that only were half crowded, and a much more serene experience.  We stayed about a third of the way into Tuolomne at Tamarac flats campground and our site had a 30 foot tall boulder adjacent.  I of course had to conquer it.

I want to get the bad out of the way first.  Yosemite had the most garbage and disrespectful visitors of any park we have been to so far.  This is most likely the law of averages as it has many more visitors and is much more accessible to those that might not respect LNT.  But still, used toilet paper and kind bar corners were everywhere.  We even watched an Aussie girl flick her cigarette butt into the bushes.  The park staff does what they can to stem the problem, but it is still very visible.  One more thing.  TONS of yellow jackets.  Everywhere in the park.  They didn't really sting, but damn it was scary being harassed almost all of the time and the ominous buzzing of thousands vibrated the forest.

Onto the good.  Amongst all of our frolicking, we got four summits in four days.  Our introduction to the park was the Taft Point / Sentinel Dome loop.  It was a lovely place to get 360 degree views of the valley.

We also knew we wanted to try for Half Dome and while we awaited the luck gods in the cable lottery...what better way to prep then hike to the top of El Capitan.  Hanging off the edge of that one was sketchy.

And the first day we lost the lottery, why not head up to Clouds Rest.  We witnessed a proposal on top of that one (not ours).

And onto the obvious, Half Dome was awesome.  The trail up was long and we left at 4:30am.  We didn't encounter too many others on the way up but near the start of the cables something schadenfreude happened.  In case you didn't know, there is a permit system for the final 1/2 mile (the cables).  Up to 250 preseason permits are up for lottery, and an additional 50 two-day-prior permits are also raffled off.  It costs a few bucks to enter the lottery and a few more if you win (we had to try twice for the 2-day permits, and lost the first time).  As we neared the cables just after sunrise, we encountered some young whipper-snappers cussing up a storm.  About an hour later at the bottom of the cables, we met a ranger who was checking permits.  We casually asked about cheaters, and he informed us it is $130 fine (per person) for non-permitted ascent and he had already given six citations that morning.  It's nice to know that the system is being fully patrolled for those that would exploit.  He also told us that 100% of the fine money goes to a victims of sexual abuse fund.  It gives you the warm fuzzy.

So after that, we move onto the cables.  At the very least, Stacy was worried at the start.  About 20' up she relaxes and starts posing for the camera, and cracking jokes.  Awesome!  Everyone on the cables was very courteous, and we managed a few glamour shots at the edge of the summit.

We chose the John Muir Trail route up, and the Mist trail down, both of which pass by two of the still-flowing waterfalls.  This is Vernal Falls, so scenic.

In the between hike time, Stacy managed to complete what I believe to be the first of many junior ranger programs.

We also visited a climbing ranger talk in the between.  Can you spot the climbers on El Cap?

All in all it was a wonderful visit and a magical place.  The people at the restaurants and shops that littered were outweighed by the courteous hikers on trail from all nations and of course, the scenery.  We made friends one night when two young ladies approached us in the campground.  They had arrived too late to secure a site and were told by the host to ask people to share a site (as every site is permitted two cars).  We obliged these two, who happened to be Germans studying in Cali for a semester.  We killed the night discussing cultural differences over dinner.  They were absolutely terrified of the idea of a bear wandering into camp so they slept in their car.  In the morning we shared tea and they went on their way with instructions to pay it forward.  

After our tour in the valley, I called up a friend who I haven't seen in about 8 years who lives in Truckee.  We stopped by to visit Aspinall and it turns out he is a realllllly good climber.  Like leading 12d's good.

He hooked us up with a couch, some old surplus gear, and great advice.  We played bocce on the beach while it snowed.  First snow of the year.  He also led me up a nice trad route in Donner summit area, such that I could lead Stacy up the following day.  First trad lead!! Stacy's first multipitch too.

Thanks Matt, although I know you'll never read this.  I'm sure we'll be back through the area to visit again.

I think Stacy was getting sick of mountains, so we were off to visit the coastal groves of Redwood.  Oh and the title? Thats what the word Yosemite means.  When the Mariposa Battalion was deposing the native population in the valley, thats what was shouted by the natives, so thats what they named the valley...

white people.

-K