"Wonderland", "Colter's Hell", "America's Best Idea", the world's first National Park, or Yellowstone... No matter what you call this place, it has called and continues to call to me.
About six years ago, we found ourselves relocated to a place called Idaho Falls for Karl's job and while there we discovered that we were a few hours drive from this park. Back then, just say I had very little to do, so I frequently would make Karl take me to Yellowstone.
No plans for the weekend? We drove to Yellowstone.
Snowed in? Let's snowmobile through Yellowstone.
Someone comes to visit us? Take them to Yellowstone.
It was my park. The colors, the smells, the animals, the sounds, the landscape.
No plans for the weekend? We drove to Yellowstone.
Snowed in? Let's snowmobile through Yellowstone.
Someone comes to visit us? Take them to Yellowstone.
It was my park. The colors, the smells, the animals, the sounds, the landscape.
We visited with day trips in every season except for Fall. So Yes, we have "been there" and "done that". But Yellowstone is over 2.2 million acres and we never camped inside the park and now I had a better camera... No question, we had to go back on this road trip (in the Fall), to explore more (backpack) and see what we missed before (and take many photos)! As soon as we got into the park, we went to the visitor center at Mammoth Hot Springs to get advice and permits. After an awkward encounter with a NPS worker in the back country office, we secured campsites and permits for a 3 day, 2 night jaunt into the depths of Yellowstone's Hellroaring area.
It seemed like a great idea at the time. Off we went, down switchbacks that took us over a suspension bridge, through rolling plains with bison and pronghorn for company, following tracks of bighorn sheep and coyote, and forded a very cold river.
Once the boots were back on, we turned off to find our designated campsite. After tip toeing our way between the massive bison patties hidden amongst the tall (and sometimes squished) grasses our scenic campsite was near. Open plains to the left, a trickling creek ahead, rocky boulders lined by trees to the right. Very pretty. But, in those trees something lurked.
Over the pounding of my heart I could hear displeased huffing noises rhythmically timed with hooves. Large heavy clacking on the cold ground, hooves that were coming at us. Fear is making eye contact with a huge juvenile male bison as it runs at you. OK, in my terrified worse case scenario mindset, I may be exaggerating a bit. Technically the big guy didn't charge right at us, just ran full speed parallel a dozen feet from us. Apparently, our campsite was his chill spot and we snuck up on him. Karl said he might have been just as afraid of us as we were of him (doubtful). Once he was far far away and it was confirmed that I did not pee my pants, we checked out where our friend was chilling. It was a beautiful place to camp, but the large trees were all bark free at certain heights due to bison rubbing on them all the time.
Once our tent was set up, I was certain we would have more buddies to camp with during the night by the evidence around us. So, to "make me feel better" Karl built a little fence of downed logs and broken branches around the area. Honestly, they would have only added to the crunching sounds if a bison did decide to charge our tent in the night but it was the thought that counts.
We did have visitors, but all moved on and crossed the water once they saw we claimed the spot. Yet my heart did reside in my throat each time I heard a huff or hoof.
The night's excitement did not end there. Right after dark, it started raining until about 3 am, which then became freezing rain, and then about 4 am it began to snow! We do not have a 4 season tent. Our wonderful lil Marmot Twilight can handle a lot of weather. But when freezing rain seals all the zippers closed and then snow piles around the rain fly burying any ventilation... not good.
We woke, dug ourselves out, and tried to pack up a frozen tent. At that point, with the events of the previous day and the trail now being snow covered, I felt that we had a very well rounded backpacking experience in Yellowstone, and that there was no need to extend it further. Karl hesitated, not wanting to "look like we backed out of backpacking" but I convinced him that no one gave a crap and since we already put our feet in freezing water, got 'up close' with the wildlife, and experienced an assortment of weather, what else did we have to prove?
Adding a few additional miles so as to not have to ford the river again, we left footprints in the fresh snow a different way back towards Ele. At the trail head, we began letting our gear thaw and planned what to do with the rest of the day.
Leaving our "failed" backpacking plans behind, we spent the afternoon driving around and exploring the scenic stops along the roads between Mammoth Hot Springs and the Lamar Valley. Spotting many hoofed creatures roaming the valley like bison, pronghorn, elk, mule deer, bighorn sheep, and even a moose, it is understandable why Lamar Valley is perfect for wildlife enthusiasts.
While strolling on the boardwalks that takes one around Mammoth Hot Springs, I recalled so many memories of our previous visits here and how much this place (especially the unique details the features create) has awed and inspired me. It was pure joy to be back.
As the sun made its way closer and closer to the horizon, we drove out of the park to the town of Gardiner to dirtbag it for the night in an old granite quarry in the Gallatin National Forest where we would sleep on our comfy mattress in our warm car. (A.K.A. No regrets on leaving the backpacking trip early!)
With the early morning light of the next day we drove back to the North Entrance and spent some quality time with the Roosevelt Arch. I love that this arch exists. It was inspiring and yet creepy all at the same time. The inspiration part came from the text "For the benefit and enjoyment of the people". I could not feel more strongly about the National Parks being OUR parks, for the people... All people. Add in the fact that elk herds and mule deer were wandering around the arch, it was ideal. The creepy part came in due to the fact that there were about a dozen people lying around the arch moaning and groaning in pain. Fake pain, as a NOLS class was utilizing the freezing cold morning exposure to practice/teach first aid wilderness techniques, but still kinda creepy. Haha
Once we passed under the stony words of wisdom and entered the park again we realized we were in a whole new environment, and a magical one. Everything was sparkling. Everywhere you looked, there was glitter. If we want to get scientific, all it was was hoar frost. But the sunlight glistening off those crystalline formations that blanketed all, was captivating to me. Yellowstone made me fall in love with frost, who would have thought? But such detail and beauty are hard to deny.
Karl realizing I was frozen in awe (terrible pun intended) accepted the fact I was content just analyzing the cold lines nature created, found a place for me to explore while he attempted to dry out our still wet tent.
Many photos and a drier tent later, we explored areas we visited in the past like Norris Geyser Basin, Artists' Paintpots, and Firehole Canyon Drive yet this time it was different... As unbelievable as it may sound, we were walking on the boardwalks of these popular destinations by ourselves! With the pathways empty and sightings of other humans being few and far between, it was surreal and awesome.
That night after watching Old Faithful be punctual, we decided to stay within the park and camped at Lewis Lake. Catching glimpses of the setting sun over the lake between the trees as we drove to our home for the night was a great ending to the day.
Continuing the trend of stopping at sights that we have visited before, we started the morning at Midway Geyser Basin (the home of the famous Grand Prismatic Spring). Sadly, the trend of having the place to ourselves ended when multiple tour buses rolled up after us. Not that having a few other companions mattered (other than to be entertained at everyone slipping and sliding on the slick surfaces of the planks) as the gelid air mixing with the scalding temperatures of the geothermal features just created an epic steamy atmosphere.
Unless you were looking down right at the edge of the boardwalk, the sights and any colors that came through were muted. But, with that said, look and you can still find really cool details like bugs in the bacterial mats. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right?
Off to something new, a short scenic drive we haven't done before: Firehole Lake Drive. This lil jaunt isn't a famous stop in Yellowstone, with no claim to glory but the features along it (the fountains, geysers, pools, and springs) were private and pristine. The most memorable feature was at the Firehole Spring where I could have stayed for hours just watching and listening to the bubbles... That might sound weird but these were special bubbles. Ones that would erupt and collapse all before reaching the surface. They were mesmerizing to watch, and even better to listen to making their own unique "whomp" sound as they burst below. I'll let Karl explain the bubbles:
<Karl 'science'>
The bubbles were escaping into the pool from a steam vent separate from the springs main source. This second vapor jet was releasing steam bubbles underwater at much higher temperature than the pool, and the steam bubbles were relatively superheated and would quickly cool in the relatively cooler water. They would drop below the vapor pressure and collapse before ever reaching the surface. This resulted in a deep loud underwater whomp every few seconds. I spent a while trying to capture a bubble prior to collapse. Way cool.
</Karl 'science'>
While on the topic of bubbles, let me mention the next place we stopped and why it always brings a smile to my face: the Fountain Paint Pots. Words alone, and even words with my photos cannot due this place justice. There is something about the sloshing, gurgling, popping, bursting of the muddy waters. How it smells, sounds, looks, moves. BUBBLES!
At the next stop, the Black Sand Basin area, the bubbly altitude I had all morning would change to blood boiling. Warning: long story/rant ahead. As we walk along the boardwalk from feature to feature on the purposely designed walkways that elevates one above the delicate yet also deadly geothermal environments below, we approach one of the platform dead ends at Emerald Pool. Ya know, wider area with benches for people to sit and enjoy. Oh and railings around the edges. To anyone with common sense, or even if you lack that but can read the numerous signs and notifications, this was a place to look (not touch) and then turn around. Granted anyone with sense visiting Yellowstone should know NOT to climb over railings in order to go off the boardwalks and into the features, if not for fear for your own life and well being than at least for the preservation of the unique features. Yet, common sense seems to be what we majorly lack in the world.
You can probably guess where I am going with this... There we are at Emerald Pool, witnessing 4 idiots blatantly not giving two shits. Pardon my language. In reality, as we walked up it was only one dimwit who climbed over the fence for a photo opt as his buddies snapped away, but still I was shocked. No, he was not in the pool (yet), but he was testing the footing all around it and posing. What made me even more angry than the fact that this asstard would be in any photos I wanted to take is that other boardwalk abiding visitors just turned a blind eye. I asked around if anyone had a cellphone to call the rangers to report this and they all refused. By even Karl's own admission, he "cared" but not enough to say anything. Well, I care more than enough. I was pissed and wanted to yell at these guys but I am only little me with no authority and no support. So, my solution was to start taking pictures of these imbeciles in the act (they ignored me) and then head back (along the proper path) to Ele and my phone.
I first called the Visitor Center because it was the easiest number to find on the newsletters. When I explained the situation, I was told immediately to dial 911 (they consider such things a major offense and if it isn't an emergency yet it could quickly become one if he fell into the scalding waters) and before I hung up to call 911 I was graciously thanked.
So, I dial 911 and repeat the story and report on the current happenings, as the jagoffs went to a different feature and left the boardwalk by climbing over a fence yet again! I was instructed to stay where I was and watch the culprits until the Law Enforcement Park Ranger arrived. With a mission, I was on the stake out and took more photos of the idiocy (god bless my telephoto lens). Thankfully, the ranger arrived quite promptly even though he said he was across the park. And this is where the real fun began. First with a pointing in the guys general direction, to show they were still around. Then I presented the ranger my photo evidence. Since he was not present and did not witness the actual law breaking, I was asked to write a statement and sign an agreement that I would testify against these guys in court if needed. I, of course, agreed. Ranger Ryan, who was awesome by the way, parked his vehicle right between the start of the boardwalk and parking lot and just waited for the guilty party to make their way to their car before confronting them. Here is where it gets even better... as one of the jerkwads go off the boardwalk yet again in full view of the ranger! That sealed it. Ranger Ryan told me that since he witnessed it himself, they couldn't deputes the charges, and my statement and photos only added to the case.
As the guys strolled back to the parking lot, the ranger approached them and brought them over to a sidewalk where I could see (he told me later he did this so that they couldn't go to their car and because he thought I would just enjoy the show). At this point, the men's stupidity became even more pronounced. The dude that Ranger Ryan witnessed off trail, completely denied doing anything wrong. Ranger Ryan calmly nods asks again if he was positive that he never left the boardwalk for any reason, receives another denial and tells him to take a seat on the sidewalk by his cop car as he explained the ramifications of lying to a law officer and the potential fines/possible jail time for their acts (and lies) that could come about. I am pretty sure the seated dude turned green. The others started confessing that they might have gone off but only because they needed to retrieve a lost item. With further probing basically letting them know he found that excuse to be bull, the story quickly changed to one of ignorance. "Oh officer, we really didn't know that we weren't allowed to do such things". Then why lie in the first place? When asked if they never read any of the maps, newsletters, or signs that all state the "stay on the boardwalk" gist, it got very quiet. Ranger Ryan explained what he could do and what he was going to do to them. Being quite nice, he went "easy" on them. Giving the 3 who didn't outright lie at first a large fine to share between them and the original liar got one all for himself. Justice!
Ranger Ryan stayed to chat with us after things settled. He thanked me again for doing the right thing. By not confronting the guys I avoided any chance of conflict or retaliation but also they didn't have the chance to get away before authorities could get there. Ranger Ryan told us that reports from visitors rarely get to see any resolution, let alone the full series of events to the end. Moral of the story: First of all, don't be stupid. It isn't worth it. Second, if you see something wrong, do something right! Care. Report. These places are OUR parks. It is our responsibility to protect them in anyway we can. End rant.
(FYI: a few weeks after this incident, I read an article about a guy who attempted to hot pot in one of the pools at Yellowstone. He died, but to make it even more interesting, his body wasn't able to be retrieved safely that night in the dark so they returned in the light of the next day. But no organic matter was left... the guy dissolved.)
Back to our story (all of which happened before noon)... To let off some residual steam and energy left over from the earlier events we decided to check out all the features in the famous Upper Geyser Basin and Biscuit Basin by hiking between the two. Five hours and hundreds of photos later, with chattering teeth and frozen fingers (not all the geysers are as predictable and punctual as Old Faithful so a lot of wishful waiting happened) we called it an eventful and productive day.
The next morning we woke before sunrise to dark clouds and rain. The sky reflecting its sadness of it being our day to leave the Park, I am sure.
Out of all our stops so far, Yellowstone was the hardest for me to leave but the next destination was waiting for us. It isn't really goodbye, just a see you later (I hope).
The dark clouds and rain I mentioned upon leaving Yellowstone followed us to the Grand Tetons. Good thing we saw this majestic mountain range before because the peaks were all socked in. And the weather forecast for the next few days just got more bleak. No such thing as bad weather, right?
With little chance of any epic scenic views through the clouds, we took to exploring the park by car for wildlife viewings each day. For example:
With animal sightings galore and then being able to return to a warm, dry, and fully stocked up on food cabin... our rained out Teton trip was turning out to be quite relaxingly awesome. Plus, our cabin came with queen bunk beds, so we convinced our friend Hazel to bring her parents to hang out and have a sleepover with us one night (and they brought cake)!
After our visitors left (yet the rain continued), I took the dreary day as an opportunity to play photographer at Morman Row Historic District and even attempted to expand my style with some black and white shots.
As we transferred our stuff from our cabin back to Ele, I admitted to Karl my one disappointment is the lack of the one big animal that still eluded me, a bull moose. Sure we've seen cows, and even bull at a very far distance. But I was hoping for a closer up (yet still safe) photo op. Karl suggests one last drive through Grand Teton National Park, just in case. Well, it was fate or the universe's way of apologizing for the crappy weather, as 3 bull moose saw us off.
All in all, this stop at the Grand Tetons was a lesson in making the best of what you are given. And appreciating it rain or shine.
~S
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